9-Octadecenedioic Acid is a multifunctional, vegetable-derived dicarboxylic acid designed for skin-brightening and sebum-regulating formulations. It acts upstream in the melanogenesis pathway by down-regulating tyrosinase mRNA expression, resulting in reduced tyrosinase activity and decreased melanin synthesis.
Sourced from natural oleic acid, this ingredient was developed as a gentler alternative to azelaic acid, offering comparable efficacy with a lower irritation profile. Studies indicate that 9-Octadecenedioic Acid interacts with enzymatic receptor sites involved in melanin production, helping to normalize pigmentation and promote a more even skin tone.
Beyond pigment regulation, it supports sebum control and blemish reduction, making it well-suited for formulations targeting hyperpigmentation, uneven tone, and acne-prone skin.
INCI: 9-Octadecenedioic Acid
Recommended Use Level: 1–2%
Solubility: Oil-soluble
Processing: Add in the cool-down phase or below 60 °C
Formulation Type: Emulsions, anhydrous systems, serums, creams, lotions
